1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 34 out of 40

Yesterday I posted how I make Rye Sourdough starter using a scraping from my sourdough mother.

Then I mixed this sourdough seeded rye bread with dried fruits and baked it today. I used a recipe I wrote September 2018 when my friend Laurie gave us a big bag of Rye flour. I am quite motivated by food gifts. I am constantly writing recipes and notes down of what I make. I write how I make things because I do not want to forget. I want to have a record and keep them alive.

I can’t imagine what it is like to leave my home and country because of a war. I left my home and country when I was 19 years old. I moved to the United States to go to school. It was hard, but it was a happy occasion and I had a sense that I was entering a whole world of discovery and opportunities. Still I was leaving Brazil with two suitcases. I would return, many times, family could come, but that first departure was like no other.

I could not bring food or grandma’s cast iron bean pot with me, but I copied my mom’s recipe into a notebook — my heirloom. The same recipes I had copied many times that said “add flour until right” or “use 3-5 egg.” It was my job to rewrite them as a child when mom’s notebooks pages would start to follow apart. It was my connection home. I was preserving them for eternity or at least for generations to come.

The hope is that when we have to leave our homes, recipes are with us, they are part of us. We know we have them in us, in our heads and in our hearts.

Tomorrow I will join Amy Halloran and Chef Ken Fornataro for April Flours to benefit humanitarian work in Ukraine. We will explore what happens when we feel the rhythm of fermentation. We invite you to be with bread, and figure out your connections to baking in a loosely held community. We will meet at the beginning of the month and map a way to extract all the fuel we can from our stores; we’ll meet again at the end of the month and discuss our journeys.

The pass is $45 to support @wckitchen . Recording available and some great content is already up and it includes my sourdough primer . 

Opening session is free:

April Flours: History of Baking and Milling and the Significance of Sourdough in America – (Amy Halloran and Ellie Markovitch)
Apr 4, 2022 11:00 AM Eastern Time (US and Canada)
https://us02web.zoom.us/j/88428193637
Meeting ID: 884 2819 3637
Passcode: AEFlours

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Sourdough Seeded Rye with dried fruit

Sourdough Seeded Rye with dried fruit

I started by refreshing making a rye starter from scraping and then feeing it at 100% hydration to mix this bread, which means I fed it equal parts of water and flour. I like ratios as you know, easy to remember: 1 part leaven : 3 parts water: 3 parts flour.

Make a pre-ferment or leaven

57g of starter seed (wheat or rye I used rye)

57g of rye flour 

57g of water

For the loaf:

170g of rye pre-ferment (fed and bubbly from above) 

510g water room temperature

510g of wholemeal rye flour

10 g of salt (2% of the flour amount) 

2 cups total of a mix of seeds and dried fruits (mix and match what you have I used flax, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, roasted buckwheat groats, raisins and dried fig and dried prune. 

  1. Mix the pre-ferment
  2. Mix water, rye flour, salt and seeds (it will be stiff paste ) and let it all soak together while your pre-ferment rises
  3. When your pre-ferment has doubled and is bubbly , 4-6 hours later, depending on the temperature of your house, add too the flour/water/seed mixture and mix very well.
  4. Pour into a greased 9 5/8 x 5 1/2 x 2 3/4 loaf pan or a 13x 4 loaf pan and let it rise for 3-4 hours til it reaches the top. Another option is to put in the fridge for an overnight rise (what I did today) because I was not around to watch the dough and rye can ferment fast. 
  5. Baked in 475F for 45 minutes, internal temp 200F. You can add a pan with hot water in the oven to create steam. 
  6. Wait 24 hours to slice the bread. I do when I can. I cut it hot and it was delicious.

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 33 out of 40

I can’t remember my mom or dad making loaves of bread. There were lots of homemade breads in our table, they just had different shapes. There were tapiocas ( flat breads made with yuca starch) and slices of cuscuz and broas made of cornmeal and breakfast cakes and biscuits of all kinds. But we bought “Pão Francês” for breakfast (Brazilian bread rolls) and “Pão de Forma” loaves for grilled ham sandwiches “misto-quente” (“hot mix” in literal translation).

When I married a person who’s bread had different shapes, grains, stories and expressions, I was so excited to embrace them. I felt in love with the process of making boules and loaves.

Everyday we have a chance to write our own bread story. When I stop by the second hand store and find a new loaf pan I wonder if my kids will talk about our long bricks of seeded rye bread. Will they remember the jars of starter that have been part of their whole lives tucked in the fridge, displayed in window seals, and traveled in our suitcases on vacation?

I don’t keep a rye sourdough starter, instead, I take a little scraping  of my wheat starter, feed it rye flour and water. I may keep that going for a few weeks but I know I can always restart the process from my original sourdough mother.  

We can adopt, make up and start traditions of our own at any time, and they will be ours, like the culture will make a home in the rye flour as it did in in the wheat.

How to create Rye Sourdough Starter from Wheat starter

Take a scrapping from your wheat starter and feed it some rye flour and water to create a paste. Or you can feed by weight according to your recipes and baking routine. If you wish to keep a rye starter, keep feeding it rye flour. I always keep my original mother fed whole wheat as well.

Within a few feedings, the starter should be converted to the new flour and it will become rye sourdough starter. Monitor to see that is happy, with bubble and about double and it is ready to use.

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 32 out of 40

Cake Time! I was reading about cake on  Food Timeline website

and how cake is consumed these days “at all significant times in the cycle of life.”

So true. We add our best wishes and our best ingredients into a mold and make an offering.

We have made cake eating a practice in our home. Snack cakes have are a weekly fair as my mom made them on Friday nights, when she would turn the oven on and do all her baking. I am trying to keep the tradition. Sometimes we make frosted cakes just because. But because it is a way to celebrate the everyday. Finishing the work week and welcoming the weekend with the family is a reason for cake.

I uses my dried starter “flour” to make my favorite frosting: flour buttercream or Ermine frosting

Ermine Frosting, using ground dried sourdough starter 

1 cup sugar, granulated, raw or demerara

5 tbsp of flour (today I used the dried starter)

1⁄4 teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

1 cup butter, room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a small saucepan, whisk together flour, milk, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking constantly. Cook until it is thick and smooth like pudding for 2-3 minutes. After cooking, pass the roux through a sieve to catch small bits of flour and place in a bowl or plate. 

Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the roux to prevent a skin from forming. Set aside to cool completely to room temperature.

In a bowl, cream butter until light and fluffy 4-5 minutes. Stop halfway to scrap the bowl. Add vanilla and the prepared roux a tablespoon at a time, beating after each addition. Beat an extra 3 minutes until light and fluffy. Pipe or frost as desired.

If when you incorporate the roux it separates, a quick fix is to warm up the bowl a bit, by placing it over a pot with warm water and re-whip. If you refrigerate or freeze the icing, re-whip before using. It keeps in the fridge for a week and at least one month in the freezer.

For the Whole Grain Sponge

3-5 eggs ( I used 3 today)

½ cup to ¾ cup of maple syrup or sugar ( I used ½ cup of sugar today)

1 cup of stone ground flour or you can use what you have, sifted wheat works too.

¼ tsp salt

1. Pre-heat oven 350F

2. Beat eggs until it triples in volume, about 7 minutes

3. Incorporate maple syrup, one tablespoon at time, beating for another 2 minutes

4. Stir and fold in flour being careful not to break all the bubbles

5. Bake in a oiled and floured 8 1/2 inch pan for 23 to 25 minutes

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 31 out of 40

The days are getting longer and the tasks are filling the days. We wait and wait for Spring to get here and run towards it. I am walking slowly as possible, even though it is hard to fight the impulse of doing one more thing when the sun is warming the dirt, the trees, the air and us. When we are busy I still bake bread. I have one recipe that allows me to mix a dough and decide later how I want to shape.

What’s your daily bread?
Flatbread, English muffins, loaf, boule, bagel, pita, cinnamon rolls, pizza, bread chips? Ours often start with my #multipurposesourdough recipe . These days we have been making lots of sandwich loafs and I add 1-2 eggs to my basic recipe. It is a simple recipe or approach – make one dough that allows us to make the bread we would like and we can customize with ingredients we have at home. Today our bread was mixed in the afternoon, the levain had pass its peak, but for breadsticks would do just fine. And dipped in garlic, chili and sesame seeds is beyond fine.

Sourdough breadsticks, my multipurpose sourdough recipe in cups:

Next week Amy Halloran and I will be joining bakers and cultures.group for “April Flours” a benefit for Ukraine.

1 cup starter or ¼ tsp yeast
1 cup liquid ( today I used 1 medium roasted beet blended with water ) and I also added an egg 
3 – 3 1/2 cups flour. (If you are using all whole grains, some flours are thirsty so add a few extra splashes of liquid. If you are using yeast and omitting the sourdough starter, reduce the flour to about 3 cups)
1 1/2 tsp salt
1-2 tbsp honey or sugar (optional)
3 tbsp of oil 
1) In the morning, mix all ingredients until the liquid and flour is well incorporated. No need to knead, but you can for 2-3 minutes to help develop the gluten if you would like. Let it rise until it nearly double

Roll the dough into a rectangle. Slice the rectangle into 8 logs and twist into breadsticks. Transfer to a greased or lined baking sheet leaving a bit of space between each one. Let them rise for a couple of hours until puffed, Brush with egg wash if desired. Bake at 400F for 15-20 minutes.

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 30 out of 40

The flour that became sourdough starter, that became flour.

Today I had fun making flour from my dehydrated sourdough starter and baking a cookie with it. It feels like working with time – pausing and restarting a process.

I think of time as a magical ingredient that I sometimes use a lot, but sometimes I can get by with less.

Dehydrated Sourdough Starter Flour Cookie

recipe test:

4 tbsp of salted butter

4 tbsp sugar

1 egg yolk

1/2 cup of Dehydrated Sourdough Starter Flour

1/4 tsp baking soda

Fennel Pollen to taste

Mixed with a fork, baked 375F for 8-10 minutes.

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 29 out of 40

Tonight I was reading about cook, caterer and entrepreneur Annie “Knowles” Fisher and her “beaten biscuits” and how extraordinary she was (is). I am having trouble reading about her in the past tense as she is inspiring me right now thought Verna Laboy’s work to keep this black woman baker story alive. Fisher became famous with her dish of biscuits and ham. They were called “beaten” because before food processors and baking powder the biscuits were beaten for 15 minutes. Later she created her own tools as she scaled her business and became very wealthy.

“Fisher’s recipe included 1 quart of sifted flour, 1/3 cup of pure lard, 1/3 cup of butter, 1 cup of sweetened water, and salt to taste. Ingredients are mixed thoroughly and beaten for 15 minutes to make biscuits light and fluffy. Fisher said beating the biscuits was meant to, “put life into them.”

I will continue reading about Fisher and leave you with the sourdough biscuits I made for tonight’s dinner. I didn’t

Sourdough Whole Grain Biscuit

1 3/4 cup of whole grain flour (mixing with sifted flour makes a light biscuit. For variation use some cornmeal, rye, buckwheat or barley, is so delicious)

1 tablespoon of baking powder

1/4 teaspoon of baking soda

1/2 tsp salt

2 teaspoon of sugar (optional)

1/2 cup of fat (I used butter)

3/4 cup of fermented flour or discard

2 tablespoon of milk kefir or yogurt

  • Preheat oven to 450ºF.
  • Combine flours and all dry ingredients in a large bowl.
  • Add diced cold butter and mix into flour with hands to make pea sized butter bits in the flour
  • Add fermented flour (discard) with the milk kefir or yogurt and blend till mixed and dough comes together.
  • Turn dough out onto a floured surface, cut into 4 sections, flatten each section into a square, stack onto each other, flatten again, stack again.
  • Flatten into a square and cut into squares or rounds.
  • Tray of cut biscuits can be put into the freezer for 15 minutes to harden butter.
  • Place on a parchment covered cookie sheet or cast iron skillet and bake 15 minutes or until lightly browned.

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 28 out of 40

A little piece of dough inside a glass of water makes a nice sourdough clock.

After I mix my sourdough bread, I take a littel piece of it and add it to a jar with water. It is a test for judging when bulk fermentation and/or proof is done (first rise is done) and then we can shape the bread. We just want to know or don’t want to miss the time to shape the bread. Temperature, flour, how the dough was mixed, how much starter we used, all effects how long it takes for the dough to ferment.

Another way to monitor is to use a rubber band on your container and see when the dough doubles.

You can see on this picture, my #multipurposesourdough that it doubled and the little piece of dough went from the bottom of the jar to floating.

This is not a float test we do before we mix bread to check if our leaven is at peak and ready to mix bread. I found out some call “Water-Proofed sourdough bread

I could not remember where I saw it, sometimes information is filed until we have a question. I was talking to a friend about the bread float and I wanted to look for it. I found a couple posts referring to to an 1860 Russian cookbook. One from the thefreshloaf.com and another from leaandjay.wordpress.com/tag/water-dough-rise/ (with lovely recipe) that states:

[In the book “Bread Matters”. Andrew Whitly states that “an original method of judging proof is given in a famous Russian Cookbook and household manual from the 1860’s called “A Gift to Young Housewives” by Elena Molohkovets.” She wrote:

“After molding the dough made with fine flour, you may put the loaves in a bucket of water (the temperature of a river in summer) where they will lie on the bottom until they are fully proofed. When they float to the surface, put them straight into the oven…..Incidentally if you are proofing bread on the table, you can put a small test piece of dough into cold water; when it rises to the surface, you can put all your loaves into the oven.”]

I wrote a few weeks back about the peak moment of the sourdough starter and it is also true with the main dough. Sometimes we miss and we can still use the fermented dough and make delicious and nutritious breads for example. I love making paratha and other flat breads if my dough overproof.

When we bake by touch, intuition or are using new flours or recipes, sometimes it feels like we are baking in  the dark. This little piece of dough in water could be a little window into what may be going on with the dough and if people are new to sourdough, may guide the timing.

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 27 out of 40

My mom’s notebooks read “add flour to the right consistency” and I have shied away from that way of baking for decades. How would I know how much flour? Not until I mess up a few times and figure out what the flour needs.

Baking with intuition is bringing ourselves, ingredients, skills, ideas and time together to make bread that is a snapshot of life. It is also a process of opening us up as we open ourselves up to the outcome of what bread is and can be. 

Many people seem to be trying to make their best breads, and I find myself trying to figure out how to “mess up” and still get bread that reflects my life. I started working on this idea of #rethinkingperfect when I traveled to Pantanal in Brazil and took only my sourdough starter with me. I got to make bread at our friend’s guest house with the cook that worked there. As I was baking, I realized I had everything I needed to make bread, a simpler way, for many the only way they have ever known — we have flour, we add water, we make some bread. As I was telling our friend Vicente and he started singing the song Meio De Campo by Gilberto Gil:

 “Dear friend Afonsinho 

I’m still here improving the imperfect

Giving time, finding a way, brushing aside perfection …

Without fear of “the perfect” …  

We become open to all the opportunities bread allows us to see.

Intuitive Sourdough Bread without a recipe

If you would like to make an #storycookingfreestyle bread or #intuitiveloaf with me, here my steps:

Add a thin layer of leaven (fed starter) to cover the bottom of your bowl. If you don’t have sourdough starter, add a few pinches of commercial yeast.

Add about an inch of liquid to the bowl with the leaven (include vegetable purees here is using)

Add 4-5 grabs of salt to taste (like the ocean)

Add flour (porridge, seeds, nuts, etc) until you are able to form a ball.

Keep mixing until the dough “cleans” or releases itself from the bowl.

After mixing, develop the dough however you like: fold, slap, claw or give it time – the dough will still rise

Shape sourdough. Place in a bowl or loaf and let it rise again. On the counter (faster) or in the fridge (slower).

 Bake.

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 26 out of 40

Cora Coralina — ‘Recreate your life, always, always. Remove the stones, plant rose bushes and make sweets. Begin again.’

Cora Coralina was a writer and poet from the state where I am from in Brazil. I love her work and loved every minute visiting her house, now a museum and seeing her kitchen where she made and sold sweets to support herself. Often I think of her and her words when I make sweets in my own kitchen…

LEARN TO LIVE
SABER VIVER
CORA CORALINA
Translation by Rosaliene Bacchus


I don’t know… If life is short
or too long for us.
But I know that nothing we endure
makes sense, if we don’t touch people’s hearts.

Most times it’s enough to be:
the receptive shoulder
enveloping arm
comforting word
respectful silence
infectious joy
flowing tears
caressing look
gratifying wish
encouraging love.

And this is not something from another world.
It’s what gives meaning to life.
It’s what makes life
neither short
nor too long.
But it would be intense
true, pure…
While it lasts.

Sourdough Cocoa Fudge Cookies

1 cup of cocoa powder

1 to 1.5 cups of sugar, we often use 1 cup

1/2 cup butter

4 eggs

2 tablespoons of sourdough starter

2 cups of flour

2 teaspoons of baking powder

1/2 teaspoon of salt

Mix all ingredients and let it ferment in the fridge for at least one day.

Bake 350F for 10-12 minutes

1/2 cup of sourdough

Day 25 out of 40

I was home alone today. These is not a one-off experience. There have been countless days, between moves, between states and even countries, that my sourdough starter was the one constant friend I had in the kitchen. During COVID-19 pandemic quarantine, many came to appreciate a bond with their sourdough starter.

My sourdough starter is the kind of friend that listens to me, helps feed me, plays with me, and keeps me company. It responds to my touch, welcomes the wild yeasts from my home and gives me joy.

My kids are always telling me I talk to my sourdough and I know I do. It  keeps me company as I pray, clean, sing, work and carry on with life. It meets me when I want to try something different. It survived being dried, starved, being very cold and very hot. It has been fed scraps and kids leftover cereals. It has drank tree sap and beet juice. 

Sourdough is also a teacher, showing me that there are many ways to breads and the breads I make with the help of my starter are one of a kind. Each loaf can hold a path, a story, a lesson, a connection with our community or just some butter!

These Sourdough buns were made with a leaven fed with milk and was in the fridge for 5 days! (not intended but I am glad it waited for me.) The recipe is Amy Halloran adaptation of Olia Hercules Pampushky Ukrainian garlic bread we have been making as part of #cookforukraine #bakeforukraine classes we have been teaching together. Today I used sifted wheat, whole wheat and rye flours, 52% preferment, about 30% eggs, 45% liquid, 10% butter plus sugar and salt. If my math is correct. But sourdough forgives bad math as well.

The next Connect and Cook for Ukraine fundraising online event is with Honest Weight Food Co-op March 28 12:00 PM – 2:00 PM EDT and I hope you can join us.